Lukla to Namache (Hike days 1 and 2)

Note – connections still slow (like dial-up, but slower)

Happy Birthday Dad!

After landing in Lukla I met Phurba Sherpa, my guide for the next 3 weeks.  He’s 51 but will still kick my butt up Island peak and all the other mountains we go up.  He’s led many expeditions up Island Peak, Mera Peak and all several others.  Two of his sons are guides, his wife manages the farm and his daughter is in school.  One other son goes to the KTM university.  Sounds like we will have a lot to talk about. 

View of Lukla, still in the clouds from earlier weather issues.

After a quick bite to eat we were off, chasing daylight on day one already!  Made it one hour before dark, missing our targeted destination for the day.  Phurba guides me to a teahouse he’s visited often.  We will stay for the night and get an early start.  Tea houses are basically hostels.  You get a room w/o heat or a/c, bed, sometimes a place to shower, and meal service.  Had garlic soup for dinner (good for acclimatization) and Tibetan bread and honey for breakfast.  Whoever said I would lose weight on this trip was way off.  The food here is excellent! 

We meander along through villages on cobblestone paths and do the occasional suspension bridge crossing.  I can’t imagine crossing these with Yak or cows, as we were bouncing all over.

Hard hiking up to Namche.  We gained over 3000 ft of elevation by the end of the day, but were rewarded with good views.

Had our first peek at Everest and Lohtse, two of the tallest mtns in the world.

Wednesday we are off to Kumjung

A lesson on Nepal

Let me just start off with this.  After hiking uphil for 4 hours, I came across an Aussie hiking solo going the opposite direction.  He said, 'Only one more hour to Namche' to which I was like "Great!".  He made a comment about how I had such a good attitude for the brutal uphill just completed and it dawned it me - I love this place.  No picture I post will do it justice (even with 12 megapixals). 

Rewind 36 hours.  For all my sarcasm on the KTM International terminal, it was at least an organized system.  Land, shuttle, visa, baggage claim, out.   Leaving KTM domestically is another story.  I get dropped at the terminal at 9:30 and promptly hit the security baggage scanner.  Packs go through, no problem.  Let's see, I have a couple knives, poles, trowel, a bunch of 3 oz bottles, steripen (looks like a laser) and any other number of things that would normally get me in trouble in a US airport.  Then off to check-in.  Find the Agni airlines booth, weigh the bag - wait, I've got to pay the airport tax.  What?  Off to the bank on the side to give more money away.  Then back to check-in.  On to the actual terminal, where the security guard nails me for my hiking poles and trowel.  Guess I'm going to dig a hole in the plane?  Trusty trowel had to be checked.  Once in the gate, it's either organized chaos or a chaotic organization.  Chaos rings true.  My flight is at 10:30 so I have a 30 min wait.  Take a seat, look around, no problem.  Then the lady that checked me in majically appears and gives me a new boarding pass.  There's around a 1000 people in this room (Nepalis and trekkers not quite 50/50 split) and she remembers me.  Weird.  10 becomes 10:30, 11, then on to 12.  No news of my flight.  Finally, around 12:15, I hear my flight number and go to board.  Present ticket, get searched, ride bus to plane, and sit on bus looking at pilots joke with our stewardess.  15 min later, board plane, ready for take-off.  Stewardess passes out candies and cotton balls...  Having no idea what they were for, I passed.  Turns out when propellor planes start going, their noise levels leave something to be desired.  Oops. Put in ipod earphones.  Thanks Steve. 

Finally, we take off and begin towards Lukla and Everest.  Annapurna can be made out above the clouds.

Are those clouds in the distance?  30 min in the 45 min flight the pilots bank hard right and back to KTM.  NOOOOOOO!  So much for Lukla today.  But wait, when we land they said we would try again at 2 pm.  So in 45 minutes the weather will be better?  Yeah right. 

I stand corrected.  45 minutes later it was a repeat.  Call to board, security check, shuttle, sit on shuttle while pilots flirt, board, take the cotton balls, take-off.  Did I mention that I lost my boarding pass and just walked on through the gate while everyone else was showing theirs?  30 min into the flight the weather appears again.  This time our daring pilots weave in and out of the clouds.   Then the famous landing in Lukla (Youtube Lukla, Nepal airstrip).  Finally, we made it at 4pm

Lesson of the day.  Patience is not a virtue.  It is a requirement. 

Other world, other Marcus

Flying across the world is quite an experience.  I have an all new respect for my foreign friends that tavel home on occasiion to India, Russia, Australia...  ATL -> Chicago, Then we left Chigago at 7:30 Friday night, landing in Delhi at 8:30pm.  We saw the sun rise somewhere between Greenland and set before Kabul.  Losing a whole day (thinking of the Third-eye Bling song "Losing a whole year".  Then spending Saturday night in the Delhi airport before an AM flight to KTM.  One look out of the plane as we approached KTM made it all worth while, seeing Annapurna and the Himalayas.  The view from the airport was stunning. 

Having traveled to a few third world countries I kinda knew what to expect, but every time it gets me...  So we land at the KTM airport.  As we deboard the plane to take a shuttle to a terminal, I look over at what appears to be the old "international" terminal. 

Now this terminal was only about a 100 feet away.  Regardless, the shuttle driver took us past the terminal, did a U-turn, then pulled up right in front of where the security guards are standing.  While I was pondering this amazing door-to-door service, I saw a John Deere tractor pull out from behing the plane carrying our luggage...my expectations for the efficient use of resources by the locals was revived.

Atlanta traffic is like a walk in the park.  Try battling motorcycles, bicycles, three-wheeled carts, walkers, cows, dogs, monkeys and oh yeah, other cars coming at you.  Technically they drive on the left side of the road here.  I think that is more of a suggestion.  My truck would never make it here, as I would curb it on both sides of the road when in town. 

One of the less scary times above.  Little more crowded below.  I was holding on to anything I could in that Corolla at any major intersection.

All in all, KTM is pretty cool.  Bought a knock-off Mammut down jacket and gloves for probably $30 US.  Good views from the hotel. 

Mt. Annapurna from the roof.  Notice the water filtration system on the roof.  Filtered water, cold shower!

View of part of the Kathmandu Resort Hotel and part of Thamel.

I must admit, today I was a little off.  After getting to my hotel, I was planning to eat, then sight see and stay up until around 9 pm local time.  Must have been the water becuase I took a shower, bought my down jacket, then went to sleep.  Totally missed the first day here!  I did get out for a little dinner tonight. 

Tomorrow I'm off to Lukla and trekking. 

Namaste!

Arrived in KTM!  So did my bags!  Can't wait to see this place.  Annapurna overlooks KTM.  This place is gorgeous and third world at the same time.  Pics to come soon.

One roll or two?

36 cliff bars, two backpacks, one sleeping bag, 5 shirts, boots, sunglasses, sunblock, spare alpine sunglasses, waterproof this, waterproof that, ice axe, crampons, rope........check, check, check and check.  One roll of TP or two?  Bigger question, what the heck is this?

I don't want to ask what the bucket is for, but I have a scary feeling I know. 

Nepal, slight detour

Can't go to Nepal without seeing Everest.  That is a cardinal rule of mine.  So is hiking at least once annually on the AT.  I thought about hiking Everest, but that would require 60 days of vacation, which would also require me to find a new job.  So a hike around Everest and a side mountain were put in the plan.  A two week vacation turns to five.  I think I'll still have a job when I get back, but who knows...

Island Peak is a solid 6000m (20,305ft) peak, with some technical ice and glacier climbing.  Guide company and porter chosen, I'm feeling pretty good.  AT hiking, Colorado 14 climbing, and visiting the local climbing gym (thanks Robbie, Lucinda and Tibor for the training) have prepped me for this stellar adventure.

If you look closely at the bottom pic, you'll see the pamper pole to the left (Mr. Pierce).

Nepal, the Plan

So a few months back I got this random email from a buddies wife, "Habitat for Humanity trip to Nepal...interested?"  Well, you can't really ignore an email with a subject like that.  I clicked to read more...

Dear friends,

Some of you may recall that Jonathan & I packed up and headed north to Cambodia to participate in a Habitat for Humanity Global Village build in August of last year.  We feel privileged and blessed to have the chance to participate in another Habitat Global Village build, this time in Nepal.  I am leading the trip again this year and we are in the process of recruiting a team so I thought I would let you guys know and see if any of you are interested in joining us.

I know that we have spoken with quite a few of you in a VERY long time, so the thought of going to Nepal to do a Habitat trip might seem preposterous, so apologies for not knowing what's currently happening in all of your lives!  But if you're interested, keep reading...

I know that quite of you have had some involvement with Habitat for Humanity 'state-side' over the years so I thought I would let you know a bit about their overseas volunteer program, Global Village. Through GV, Habitat takes its mission global, giving thousands of families in some of the world's poorest families a hand up out of poverty through safe, decent and affordable housing.  GV also gives participants a way to connect personally with the individuals Habitat serves.  I cant speak highly enough about Habitat or the GV experience. 

I have attached a few documents with some information about our trip, which will take place from 15-26 November of this year.

I recognize it may be a bit of a stretch, but let me know if you are interested, or if you just want to let me know what's going on in your life (that's great too!). 

Love,

Bon

 
Wow, what an awesome trip.  I was currently planning a trip to Colorado with a few other friends so I just thought, "cool, that would be fun, some other time..."  That email stuck with me though, and after talking to the wifey and sitting on it for a couple months, I decided what the heck, live life.  Maybe it was the bumper sticker I saw that said, "Don't delay joy", or a dream I had of one day building a school in Africa, or just the thought of going to Nepal instead of Golden Corral for Thanksgiving (sorry Dad).  Perhaps it had a little to do with Bonnie continuing to send emails how awesome this trip would be.  Whatever it was, I felt compelled to do this.  So on August 6th, after confirming with everyone possible at work it would be ok for me to go, I committed to Bonnie and Jonathan (her husband, my friend and former colleague). 

Below is an actual Habitat House built in Nepal.  Bamboo studs (grown locally in Nepal by HFH), plaster and tin roof (not rusted).