Haven't been online lately. While internet places are around, in Birtamode connections are slow and electricity is even a luxury here. I realize the headlamp is a very good investment here as one never knows when the power will go out. Hot or even warm showers are out of the question here, but its ok.
Been working on the bamboo house quite a bit. It's a lot of work. Know what a bamboo stalk looks like? Well, we take 20-40 foot stalks cut down, measure adn cut them the length of a wall (usually 8-14 feet) and split them length wise into 4-6 in to smaller pieces, then cut them in to fine wood (like flooring) and then weave them into walls. Had blisters even through gloves and it wore me out! Today I moved over to help put in a concrete floor. Sounds simple enough, but it is back breaking work given teh tools we are using. so crude here. also had rain a couple days while working. Regardless it has been a great experience and the locals and Aussies are a great group. The homeowner is so happy to have our support and help, the community is pitching in and the local children are having a blast with foreigners here.
Besides all the hard work I have been kinda designated as the official 'entertain the children guy' when shcool is out which entails finding ways to entertain about 20 kids ranging from 4 to maybe 14. they love teh football I brought, but they really have no concept of actual football. more like keep away, throwing to the group... 20 on 1 is not fair odds, even if i am 20 years older and a couple feet taller than most of them. The kids are so happy and don't realize how hard their life really is.
So far we have built 7 of the 9 walls required. These will be installed after we finish creating the concrete flooring, which could be tomorrow. Pushing it to get done by Thursday! It will be a much needed improvement over their current place, which I thought was just a shed when I first saw it.
Dinnertime soon. After getting sick a couple weeks ago I have gotten less fond of the Nepali food and all of its spices. I find that french fries and tomato sauce are actually good to sustain me here, so I keep visiting teh local mcdonalds for fries. Oh wait, that's not a McD's. It's a Punjab Cheap and Best place to eat in Birtamode. Little scary. Haven't seen a single chain restaurant in Nepal...nor a Wal Mart, super market... It's kinda nice!
Monday, November 22, 2010
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Pokhara
Ok, enough for the poking fun at nationalities. I must say, Pokhara is the coolest place so far in Nepal (albeit not a hiking adventure, but more of a hiking base camp for Annapurna region).
Made a new good friend (Mike from NZ) on the 5 hr bus ride from Chitwan to Pokhara. We got real close and part of that was b/c of Nepali buses are not designed for two grown white men to sit next to each other. Kinda felt like that movie "Stuck on You" when we got off the bus. Anyways, after sharing our life history and views on african vs asian elephants, we decided to keep it going and hang out in Pokhara.
Pokhara is surrounded by mountains and has a nice sized lake in the middle. Seems as though all the touristy things involve a cab there, so instead of dishing out rupees to cab drivers, we did it old school and rented motorcycles. Ah, I can still remember laying the last motorcycle I rode onto my knee in 8th grade, but the pain wasn't enough as the embarrassment of having to ask how to get the tranny back into neutral on my Yamaha Enticer (i.e. little man motorcycle). Remembering how to work the clutch we were on our way. First an unground temple in a cave (cool - 100 ft down with a waterfall), then off to the mountain climber museum. After catching up with Tenzing Norgay and being harrassed by high school girls wanting their pictures with white people, we hit a cross road - off to the 'bat cave' or just explore...exploring wins!
We hit the road north along the lake, with incredible views all along the way. About 45 min up the road ended and became more like a dirt/rock road. No worries, the Enticer can handle it in 2nd gear. small streams...keep the feet up. small streams and rocks...that's a new one. Finally we pulled over in the middle of rice patties and rocks, just in time for us to be rushed by a bunch of Nepali children. 'Ride, ride, ride!!!' Let's see, mom, can you waive them off? Nope, she laughs and says go, so we take off. I have two little ones in two (probably 5 and 8 years old). If she only knew my motorcycle driving record, or lack thereof. 100 meters down, 100 back, happy kids. They didn't want off. Mom pried them off then mouths 'GO' to us and we're off again. Whew!
Dodging the cars, bikes, walkers, bovine and dog we blew around the lake! Man, I gotta get me one of these.
Bars in Pokhara are awesome. Live music = Western music. There's nothing like hearing "Sweet Home Alabama" when you walk in the door until you realize it's a Nepali band! Little Bryan Adams Summer of 69, Freebird, Skynard and Green Day and I felt right at home. Had a couple Everest beers and off to the next place.
If I ever come back to Nepal, Pokhara will be my #1 non-hiking destination.
PS - traffic laws are great here. 3 years in jail for involuntary bovineslaughter, 2 years incarceration for taking out a goat. It's better to hit a person than a sacred animal here. No worries, I find a cow sacred now too, as I have found myself dreaming of the ultimate hamburger. Yum.
PPS - bought a Mammut dri-fit shirt for 450 rupees ~ $6 USD. Very nice. Got an embroidered shirt for 450 as well. Let's just say I'm feeling Super.
Made a new good friend (Mike from NZ) on the 5 hr bus ride from Chitwan to Pokhara. We got real close and part of that was b/c of Nepali buses are not designed for two grown white men to sit next to each other. Kinda felt like that movie "Stuck on You" when we got off the bus. Anyways, after sharing our life history and views on african vs asian elephants, we decided to keep it going and hang out in Pokhara.
Pokhara is surrounded by mountains and has a nice sized lake in the middle. Seems as though all the touristy things involve a cab there, so instead of dishing out rupees to cab drivers, we did it old school and rented motorcycles. Ah, I can still remember laying the last motorcycle I rode onto my knee in 8th grade, but the pain wasn't enough as the embarrassment of having to ask how to get the tranny back into neutral on my Yamaha Enticer (i.e. little man motorcycle). Remembering how to work the clutch we were on our way. First an unground temple in a cave (cool - 100 ft down with a waterfall), then off to the mountain climber museum. After catching up with Tenzing Norgay and being harrassed by high school girls wanting their pictures with white people, we hit a cross road - off to the 'bat cave' or just explore...exploring wins!
We hit the road north along the lake, with incredible views all along the way. About 45 min up the road ended and became more like a dirt/rock road. No worries, the Enticer can handle it in 2nd gear. small streams...keep the feet up. small streams and rocks...that's a new one. Finally we pulled over in the middle of rice patties and rocks, just in time for us to be rushed by a bunch of Nepali children. 'Ride, ride, ride!!!' Let's see, mom, can you waive them off? Nope, she laughs and says go, so we take off. I have two little ones in two (probably 5 and 8 years old). If she only knew my motorcycle driving record, or lack thereof. 100 meters down, 100 back, happy kids. They didn't want off. Mom pried them off then mouths 'GO' to us and we're off again. Whew!
Dodging the cars, bikes, walkers, bovine and dog we blew around the lake! Man, I gotta get me one of these.
Bars in Pokhara are awesome. Live music = Western music. There's nothing like hearing "Sweet Home Alabama" when you walk in the door until you realize it's a Nepali band! Little Bryan Adams Summer of 69, Freebird, Skynard and Green Day and I felt right at home. Had a couple Everest beers and off to the next place.
If I ever come back to Nepal, Pokhara will be my #1 non-hiking destination.
PS - traffic laws are great here. 3 years in jail for involuntary bovineslaughter, 2 years incarceration for taking out a goat. It's better to hit a person than a sacred animal here. No worries, I find a cow sacred now too, as I have found myself dreaming of the ultimate hamburger. Yum.
PPS - bought a Mammut dri-fit shirt for 450 rupees ~ $6 USD. Very nice. Got an embroidered shirt for 450 as well. Let's just say I'm feeling Super.
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Golden Corral, Part Deux, and Next Steps, and General Thoughts
Wow, I really liked trying Nepali food. So many different flavor combinations, and each one my stomach responded to uniquely. Apparently virus stew was the last straw. In Dingboche my stomach said it had had enough. So, after not keeping any food down two days later, I called off the Island Peak attempt. It was either a three day's walk (for a healthy person) to Lukla plus flight out or a $8k helicopter ride to the KTM hospital if conditions worsened. Not sure how, but Phurba was able to get me to Lukla alive and walking, although I do need to give a shout out to the Spanish doctor who saw me yakking and gave me those awesome pills. Don't know what they were, but they got me to civilization. I'm better now, but wow, there were moments where I wondered if there could be any less any me than 5 min before...
Of course the sick time did allow me to set a few new hiking records:
- Most yaks in a hike
- Most breaks in a day
- Shortest time between breaks (My personal best here was taking a break immediately after taking a break. Only managed to stand up before sitting back down).
- And my favorite - taking a break on a downhill. Who knew that could be taxing
Best surprise during sickness:
Phurba look of disbelief when I ordered a Sprite and Snicker's bar (Sneaker Bar on the menu) for lunch on a long day. Could also have been the best meal ever, if I hadn't already designated the Sour Cream Pringles and bottled water as that the night before. That signaled the end of my Nepali food experiment on the hike. Processed, western food from then on out.
Still trying to post pics... Seems the Internet can't work well enough here to upload files....
So, in the days I have b'n the scheduled end of my hike and the Habitat build I decided to hit Chitwan National Park for a couple days and then Pokhara.
How to describe Chitwan: They say it was the first national park in Nepal. It's 'like' a wildlife preserve and boasts the home of the Bengal tiger, Rhino, wild Asian elephants, couple kinds of crocs, monkeys, etc. Kinda makes me think of a national park in Arkansas. Think about that one for a minute. So far I've seen all but the elusive tiger. Oh the stories I can boast about this 'resort' when I get home, but I'll just say cold showers in the dark set the tone. Glad I brought the headlamp. Poor French suckers in the 'cottage' next to me. Makes me miss the Yak fired stoves and Dal Bhat in the Himalayas.
In the spirit of the holiday season, I am releasing my first single when I return:
"Dal Bhat roasting on the Yak Dung Fire"
and to replace Jingle Bells I've got ""YakCow Bells"
Foreigners (including me):
I've met my fair share on this trip and tried to be friends with all (succeeded a few times), though the generalizations are fun:
- Canadian's - No, Americans don't want people to think we are Canadian. If it means a terrorist is going to kill me, then fine, but we will not bow to the queen and say "Don't Ya Know" outside of the Dakotas
- French - STOP COMPLAINING
- Germans - cool so far. It took a few Germans to warm up to us, but the younger generations are cool and like Americans.
- Aussies - Fun. Suck at Scrabble, now matter what version of English we use
- Brits - No, I don't care that you think I am a weenie for hiring a porter and yes, I do get less vacation than you. What's that, you can't see a point to going Everest Base Camp since you can't see the mountain? Wow, I can't even respond to how that comment came out.
Fins - Sorry, just can't understand you
Russians - Put some pants on. It's not a game to see who can wear the shortest shorts with their Teva's and tanktops and high tech walkie talkies. Walk together, then you don't need those very expensive walkies.
Americans - GET OUT MORE. We don't travel enough, if at all. Did have a guy from San Fran comment that he couldn't believe someone from Georgia left the US, let alone the South, to vacation. We American's are pathetic at vacationing, period. However, to the French guy that only works 5 months per year and then has trouble coming back after his 7 month vacations, "Boo Hoo".
Dutch - Cool. I never knew the Dutch could be so tall.
Israeli - Stop being so serious and acting like you are being constantly persecuted, even amongst allys.
Irish - Nice accent
And lastly, to the Japanese: I don't know where to start here. Share the trail, hike faster, respect trail ettiquite, yes, Americans do know Japanese. When I am nice enough to say Kenichiwa, don't laugh at me and walk on. Japs do have the nicest cameras.
Largest group award: Goes to the Japanese - to the group of 70 that booked up all the hotel rooms in Gokyo and left the rest of us out in the cold. Thanks alot.
Still loving the vacation. All of this has made this the awesome trip it has been so far!
RE: Golden Corral - last time I yakked.
Of course the sick time did allow me to set a few new hiking records:
- Most yaks in a hike
- Most breaks in a day
- Shortest time between breaks (My personal best here was taking a break immediately after taking a break. Only managed to stand up before sitting back down).
- And my favorite - taking a break on a downhill. Who knew that could be taxing
Best surprise during sickness:
Phurba look of disbelief when I ordered a Sprite and Snicker's bar (Sneaker Bar on the menu) for lunch on a long day. Could also have been the best meal ever, if I hadn't already designated the Sour Cream Pringles and bottled water as that the night before. That signaled the end of my Nepali food experiment on the hike. Processed, western food from then on out.
Still trying to post pics... Seems the Internet can't work well enough here to upload files....
So, in the days I have b'n the scheduled end of my hike and the Habitat build I decided to hit Chitwan National Park for a couple days and then Pokhara.
How to describe Chitwan: They say it was the first national park in Nepal. It's 'like' a wildlife preserve and boasts the home of the Bengal tiger, Rhino, wild Asian elephants, couple kinds of crocs, monkeys, etc. Kinda makes me think of a national park in Arkansas. Think about that one for a minute. So far I've seen all but the elusive tiger. Oh the stories I can boast about this 'resort' when I get home, but I'll just say cold showers in the dark set the tone. Glad I brought the headlamp. Poor French suckers in the 'cottage' next to me. Makes me miss the Yak fired stoves and Dal Bhat in the Himalayas.
In the spirit of the holiday season, I am releasing my first single when I return:
"Dal Bhat roasting on the Yak Dung Fire"
and to replace Jingle Bells I've got ""YakCow Bells"
Foreigners (including me):
I've met my fair share on this trip and tried to be friends with all (succeeded a few times), though the generalizations are fun:
- Canadian's - No, Americans don't want people to think we are Canadian. If it means a terrorist is going to kill me, then fine, but we will not bow to the queen and say "Don't Ya Know" outside of the Dakotas
- French - STOP COMPLAINING
- Germans - cool so far. It took a few Germans to warm up to us, but the younger generations are cool and like Americans.
- Aussies - Fun. Suck at Scrabble, now matter what version of English we use
- Brits - No, I don't care that you think I am a weenie for hiring a porter and yes, I do get less vacation than you. What's that, you can't see a point to going Everest Base Camp since you can't see the mountain? Wow, I can't even respond to how that comment came out.
Fins - Sorry, just can't understand you
Russians - Put some pants on. It's not a game to see who can wear the shortest shorts with their Teva's and tanktops and high tech walkie talkies. Walk together, then you don't need those very expensive walkies.
Americans - GET OUT MORE. We don't travel enough, if at all. Did have a guy from San Fran comment that he couldn't believe someone from Georgia left the US, let alone the South, to vacation. We American's are pathetic at vacationing, period. However, to the French guy that only works 5 months per year and then has trouble coming back after his 7 month vacations, "Boo Hoo".
Dutch - Cool. I never knew the Dutch could be so tall.
Israeli - Stop being so serious and acting like you are being constantly persecuted, even amongst allys.
Irish - Nice accent
And lastly, to the Japanese: I don't know where to start here. Share the trail, hike faster, respect trail ettiquite, yes, Americans do know Japanese. When I am nice enough to say Kenichiwa, don't laugh at me and walk on. Japs do have the nicest cameras.
Largest group award: Goes to the Japanese - to the group of 70 that booked up all the hotel rooms in Gokyo and left the rest of us out in the cold. Thanks alot.
Still loving the vacation. All of this has made this the awesome trip it has been so far!
RE: Golden Corral - last time I yakked.
Monday, November 8, 2010
Finally, Pics
Ok, so it's taken a while, but the pics are beginning to upload...
On day 3 of the hike we ventured into the village of Khumjung, probably a population of a hundred people (which is rather large in the Khumbu region). One of the original Sir Edmund Hillary schools are there. After climbing Everest, Hillary dedicated himself to educating the region's children. Today the school is supported by donations from various climbing clubs and organizations from around the world.
My favorite pic from Khumjung. Hard to appreciate from home, but seeing children there fly a kite was inspiring.
Phurba (my guide) and me sharing a moment with Sir Hillary.
The entrance to the school (not as impressive as ours...)
After leaving Khumjung, on our way up to Dole, Phurba took me via a 'short-cut'. More like climbing up the wall into Mordoor, for you Lord of the Rings fans.
Irony is not lost on me here...
So far so good on this trip. Next up, the incredible views begin
On day 3 of the hike we ventured into the village of Khumjung, probably a population of a hundred people (which is rather large in the Khumbu region). One of the original Sir Edmund Hillary schools are there. After climbing Everest, Hillary dedicated himself to educating the region's children. Today the school is supported by donations from various climbing clubs and organizations from around the world.
My favorite pic from Khumjung. Hard to appreciate from home, but seeing children there fly a kite was inspiring.
Phurba (my guide) and me sharing a moment with Sir Hillary.
The entrance to the school (not as impressive as ours...)
After leaving Khumjung, on our way up to Dole, Phurba took me via a 'short-cut'. More like climbing up the wall into Mordoor, for you Lord of the Rings fans.
Irony is not lost on me here...
So far so good on this trip. Next up, the incredible views begin
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar
'Sorry the blogs have been non-existent. I get the feeling that the satellite internet is running through China airspace and they really don't want me talking about Tibetan life, as the Nepali's tell me.
Anyways, yes, I am still alive. Yesterday I made the trek up to Everest Base Camp, over 17k feet up. No matter what anyone says, it is well worth it, regardless of no direct views of Everest (when I get to KTM I will post pics. Right now the price is wrong). The Khumbu Icefall where the official trek begins is amazing, and you are surrounded by multiple mountains (Pumori, Lohtsi, Nuptsi) that all rank in the tops of mountains in the world. I heard and then saw three avalanches while there, none of which were close. I can now see how hikers died years ago during an avalanche right after starting their climb.
Today we hit Kala Pattar, the best place to see Everest in Nepal. Amazing. KP involves climbing to over 5500m in altitude, which was almost impossible at 5 am with the temps below 0. No problem for my guide Phurba Sherpa. Did I mention he's 51 and kicks the pants off me every day? I stand a fair chance at keeping up with him on the flats, but he's gone when we hit any hills.
Tomorrow we begin the 3 day journey to Island Peak...
PS - had my first shower in 10 days today. Wow. Also got the experience of hand washing my clothes and hanging on a line outside. Dry time is slow in 40 degree weather.
Anyways, yes, I am still alive. Yesterday I made the trek up to Everest Base Camp, over 17k feet up. No matter what anyone says, it is well worth it, regardless of no direct views of Everest (when I get to KTM I will post pics. Right now the price is wrong). The Khumbu Icefall where the official trek begins is amazing, and you are surrounded by multiple mountains (Pumori, Lohtsi, Nuptsi) that all rank in the tops of mountains in the world. I heard and then saw three avalanches while there, none of which were close. I can now see how hikers died years ago during an avalanche right after starting their climb.
Today we hit Kala Pattar, the best place to see Everest in Nepal. Amazing. KP involves climbing to over 5500m in altitude, which was almost impossible at 5 am with the temps below 0. No problem for my guide Phurba Sherpa. Did I mention he's 51 and kicks the pants off me every day? I stand a fair chance at keeping up with him on the flats, but he's gone when we hit any hills.
Tomorrow we begin the 3 day journey to Island Peak...
PS - had my first shower in 10 days today. Wow. Also got the experience of hand washing my clothes and hanging on a line outside. Dry time is slow in 40 degree weather.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)